For AW12 the Ann-Sofie Back Atelje collection goes mental - albeit only in terms of inspiration source.
The starting point was last season’s theme of God but now moving on to how God is replaced in society by self-discovery/obsession through therapy and psychoanalysis. We seek truth and meaning within our own souls now, which results in a society led by feelings, not by ideas. This line of thought led us onto the subject of mental illness.
The silhouette has a dropped waist and broad shoulders, caricaturing both the male and female shape. The collection is simultaneously the victim/patient and perpetrator/all-knowing god-like doctor.
The garment types are clearly masculine, the suit, the pilot jacket, the polo shirt, the trench and the denim jacket, archetypical male garments that have been tweaked into the female shape at the waist through folds and cuts. Garments are multi layered and infused with padding, like in padded cells. Fastening points and folds are pierced with studs.
The colours are dusty, muted and depressed in shades of lilac, wine, grey, vanilla, pink, navy and white. Plastic handcuffs commonly used as restraints in mental hospitals inspire the accessories and jewellery.