Following on from last season’s successful re-branding of her main line collection, Ann-Sofie Back presents a more voluminous but still sophisticated silhouette for the Autumn Winter 2011/12 collection for the Atelje line. While the look may be refined, the themes in which Back uses as a starting point are anything but. As an extension of last season’s porn theme, this time the attention is turned to the idea of porn as consumption, more specifically looking at the way in which men look at cars in the same way they may look at porn.
Inspiration comes from the actual design of cars, the speed, reflections and moulded shapes associated with them. This is reflected in subtle details and as chrome reflections and bug-splatter prints on dresses, trousers and tops. There is also some intricate pleated garments derived from when you compress cars in the scrapyard.
The incorporation of silver components within garments is reminiscent of windscreen frames, while jewellery is constructed from burl wood, as seen on dashboards.
The higher production values and use of the finest fabrics defy the tongue in cheek sensibility omnipresent in all of Back’s work. Finest wool rib jersey, bonded silk duchesse, washed silk jersey and cashmere wool suitings in shades of aqua, black, mauve and sand are all used to create elegant eveningwear and tailored pieces. The Atelier line is still produced with high end production unit PR3. There is a subversive expression within Ann-Sofie Back Atelje, for both the designer and the wearer.